Thursday, September 8, 2011

Oversized Hoodie Pattern

I originally shared this pattern over on The Train To Crazy during her Dress Your (School) Boy series last month. I've gotten tons of questions about the fabric I used. It's from Spoonflower. Yes, it DID cost me an arm and a leg, thanks for asking. But I loved it, and Riley loves it, so it was worth it. Also, if you want to use a  feature print like I did on this hoodie, and make the arms solid, you only need ONE yard of your print, which saves a little money when you're splurging on custom printed organic knit. :)



I've found that, while there are some great boys patterns, many of the end at size 6 or 7, leaving my extremely tall 9-year-old out of the handmade fun. I also find that sewing for him can get pricey, because his garments require so much fabric! Many hoodie patterns are fully lined, designed to help the home sewist enclose raw fabric edges. This pattern is designed to conserve fabric by lining only the hood, while still being large enough for a big kid. I think this pattern is a comfortable size 12. Also, this is a QUICK project. I can get through this hoodie in less than 90 minutes. Let's get started!

Materials:
Oversized Hoodie Pattern Pieces
1.75 yards knit fabric
.5 yards rib knit
Separating zipper (30 inches)
Twill tape  (optional)
Sewing machine
Coordinating thread
Zipper foot.

*Note: You will notice that I sewed this entire project, except the zipper, on my serger. I did this because my regular machine is in the shop, so I didn't have another option. You can ABSOLUTELY sew this on a regular machine. I would suggest either a stretch stitch or a zig zag stitch for all seams, except the zipper. If you use a knit, you can leave the edges raw.

1. Cut your pattern pieces. I recommend printing all the pages, taping the pages together, and then cutting out the pattern pieces. The hoodie body is one pattern piece for both front and back. I suggest using the pattern piece to cut the hoodie back first, then trim out the neckline from the pattern piece and use the same piece for the front body pieces. Front and back necklines are marked on the pattern piece.

2. Cut your fabric. You should have one back body (use body piece and cut on fold), two front body pieces (use body piece, cut both pieces at once by laying pattern on fabric, wrong sides together), four hood pieces (cut two simultaneously by placing on fabric wrong sides together), and two sleeve pieces (use sleeve pattern pieces, cut on fold). Cut three pieces of rib knit. Two of the should be 9 inches wide by 6 inches tall, and the other should be 32 inches wide by 8 inches tall. Place them in a messy pile on your kitchen table. (I guess that last part is optional). :)


3. Sew the shoulder seams, RST.



4. Sew in the sleeves, RST.



5. Sew up the side seams. Turn underneath the arm and sew the arm seam.


6. Place hood pieces RST, and sew around curved edge. Repeat with second set of hood pieces.



7. Place one hood inside the other hood, RST. Stitch around the front edge of the hood. Turn right side out, press, and topstitch the front hood edge.




8. Pin the hood to the neckline, RST. Start by matching the center hood seam with the center back of the neckline. Then match the front corners, and fit the rest of the hood to the neckline. Stitch in place.


*Optional: Cover this seam at the back of the neck with twill tape. This is a common finishing method in unlined hoodies.

9. Grab your smaller piece of rib knit. Fold it in half, matching the short ends, and stitch up the side.


10. Fold your knit tube into a cuff, with the seam on the inside. Place RST on the end of the sleeve. Match the seam on the cuff with the seam on the sleeve. Pin, and sew in place.


11. Look! You made a cuff! Now go do it again on the other sleeve.


12. Now grab your last piece of rib knit. Fold it in half, matching the long edges. Pin RST to the bottom of the hoodie. Stitch in place.


13. You're almost done! Now grab your zipper. Unfortunately, I don't have photos of this part because I had to sew in the zipper at the machine shop where my machine is being repaired, but don't be scared! It is SO EASY! Just separate the zipper. Lay it face down on the front of the hoodies. Either hand baste it in place, or pin well. Stich it down. The just turn the zip right side up, turning the edge of the zipper tape and raw fabric edge under. Topstitch in place. Repeat with the other side. And you're done!




Make your kid model their new fall hoodie in 90 degree heat. Riley actually really loves this hoodie, despite the look on his face. 

5 comments:

  1. This is awesome! I will totally be making one of these for my big boy. Love your fabrics- worth the splurge! At this age, if they don't love it, they don't wear it, which is an even bigger waste of cash!

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  2. Thank you so much for sharing this. I have three boys and it is so hard to find clothes to make for them in the right size. Now, if I started sewing when they were babies..there is a lot of cute 'little' boy clothes.
    I pinned this to make later. Thanks.

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  3. That is awesome. My daughter would love if I could make something like this! Im still a beginner and most of this still confuses me! But I will definitely be bookmarking for future use. :)

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  4. I love this...thanks for sharing

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  5. i think we need Riley here saying he likes the hoodie! ;-p LOL. I do, though, and I liked your explanations... - up until the 'Sew in the Zipper' part! That paragraph felt a little overwhelming, like you were pleading with is to understand it! (It's really easy, I promise! Just these 10 simple steps with baited breath!!! LOL). Other than that, I really appreciated your instructable because things settled in my mind a little more - like the RST abbreviation-memo, and the principle of cuffs and the importance of lining up the centers of panels, etc.. Thanks, & many more creative projects !

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